Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
