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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.